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Perms have made a proper comeback in men’s grooming — and unlike most trends, this one’s earned its place. Done properly, a men’s perm solves problems a haircut alone can’t: flat, fine hair that won’t hold shape, hair that’s too straight for the texture you actually want, or a style you’re currently fighting with product every morning instead of working with.

We’ve been doing perms at Shankey long enough to know exactly where they work — and just as importantly, where they don’t.

What a men’s perm actually gives you

  • Volume without effort. If your hair is fine or flat and dies by midday no matter what product you use, a perm builds structure into the hair itself. You stop fighting gravity with wax.
  • Less daily styling time. Once it’s grown in and settled, a good men’s perm cuts your morning routine down, not up. The texture does the work that a hairdryer and three products used to.
  • A style that suits straight hair badly. Certain modern cuts — textured crops, quiffs with movement, curtain styles — genuinely look better with a wave or curl pattern than dead-straight hair. A perm is often the difference between a cut looking flat and looking finished.
  • Definition if you’ve got natural waves fighting themselves. Some clients don’t need curl added — they need the pattern they already have evened out and controlled. That’s a different technique to a full perm and we’ll tell you which one you actually need.

Why the barber matters more than the perm

A perm is a chemical process, not just a styling choice, and the two things that separate a good one from a bad one are rod selection and timing — both of which depend on reading your specific hair, not following a fixed process. Fine hair, coarse hair, previously coloured hair and virgin hair all behave differently under the same solution. Get the rod size wrong for your hair type and you’ll get a curl that either drops out in a fortnight or looks nothing like what you asked for. Get the processing time wrong and you risk real damage.

This is where experience does the heavy lifting. We assess your hair’s condition and type before we touch a rod, we talk you through what’s realistic for your hair rather than just replicating a reference photo, and we’ll say no to a perm if your hair isn’t in the right condition to take one well — better that conversation happens in the chair than three weeks later when it hasn’t worked.

What it involves and how long it lasts

A men’s perm typically takes 1.5–2 hours depending on hair length and the pattern you’re after. Most men get 3–6 months of wear out of it before it’s fully grown out, with the curl relaxing gradually rather than dropping out suddenly. Aftercare is straightforward — we’ll talk you through the right products so you’re not undoing the result with the wrong shampoo.

Is a perm right for you?

If your hair is fine, flat, or fighting the style you want, or you’re spending too long every morning trying to force texture that isn’t there naturally — it’s worth a consultation. If your hair’s already damaged, over-processed, or previously bleached, we’ll likely tell you to hold off, and we’ll tell you why.

Book a consultation and we’ll give you a straight answer on whether a perm will actually work for your hair — not just whether we can technically do one.

— Jason Shankey

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